![]() OK, then as stated above, it's gotta be a ground loop between the aftermarket HU and the Bose amp.I've listened with a stethoscope and I'm sure it's not the bearings. 85-bowtie said: It never did whine with the factory h/u, the new alternator didn't change anything with the whine on the aftermarket. The crack was only two up the inches long.Premium Member. It acted similar to how a reed responds to air. By chance I was under the vehicle and saw exhaust gas coming out of the flexible portion of the exhaust line. I thought maybe that it was the alternator or perhaps A pulley. If there is no noise, then the amp is fine, and you can proceed to level 2.The same issues with a weird whining noise. To do this, mute the signal at the inputs to the amp by using shorting plugs. ![]() Customer :2.1.1 Level 1: Check out the Amplifier (s) After you have determined that there is noise in the system, determine if the amplifier is causing the noise. tims auto repair : After you start the car, even if nothing is on, the alternator will be under a load until the battery is fully charged from starting. Customer : It is an electrical whine, not a bearing noise. The end of the screwdriver is not drawn towards the bolt as there isn't any electrical magnetism.Well, under load the electromagnets pull on the ohmeter putting pressure on the bearing. It's on the front of the alternator and the alternator belt goes round the pulley. Use a metal screwdriver and place the metal end very near the bolt on the alternator pulley. ![]() Ensure the new belt has no more than 8 to 10mm of deflection.Alternator whine - I have used the suppresor in the past on standard car radios (in line on live power wire) and this cut out radio whine also. If the visual inspection determines the belt is fine and the pulley is in good shape, best to replace the belt and ensure proper tension.
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